Day 4 -- Discovering the Desert
All of the rest and relaxation paid off in spades today, preparing us for a day that was both physically demanding and intellectually challenging.
After another wonderful Neve Ilan breakfast (they keep coming up with new treats for us, ranging from Shakshouka http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shakshouka to shredded filo with cheese http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kanafeh, not to mention cheeses, fruits, vegetables, yogurt and eggs galore) we drove south via the desert city of Arad on our journey to Masada.
In Arad, we stopped at a magnificent overlook for our first experience of the desert's stark beauty. Looking at the layers of sand in rolling ancient hills, hearing the silence of the desert pierced by the occasional sonic boom of a training flight, we hung in the balance of Israel past and present. We used the awesome natural setting as the site for our morning tefillot (prayers), first wondering together what makes the opening prayer, Mah Tovu Ohalekha Yaakov, How Goodly are your Tents, O Jacob fitting when praying in the open air. Answers ranged from the desert as the site in the Bible where those words were first recited to the appropriateness of the entire natural world as a place for prayer. Together we concentrated on the blessing which acknowledges God as Creator of light and darkness, peace and all that is. Each of us had the opportunity to offer our own praise in our own words for the wonders in the world. Our service concluded with deep, relaxing breathing, taking the desert air in as our own.
Energized and excited, we continued our ride to the desert fortress of Masada (http://www.mfa.gov.il/MFA/History/Early+History+-+Archaeology/Masada+-+D...). When we pulled into the parking lot and saw the ramp to the top looming above us we were awed and even a bit daunted. But each and every one of us successfully climbed to the top, in a record 15 minutes. There was great celebration (and much drinking of water!) when we completed the climb. The view from Masada is as breathtaking as the story of the zealots who holed up there following the destruction of Jerusalem. We covered the mountain top from end to end, considering the various ruins and their uses and shouting into the valley to hear our voices bounce back to us. Descending into a massive water cistern, we were treated to a beautiful song by Idan, our resident artist. The incredible acoustics carried the sound well out onto the mountaintop. Our last Masada stop was in the ancient synagogue, where we read from Josephus' account of the last moments in the fortress. Nitzan showed us pictures of pottery shards with family names discovered in the ruins. Were they lots used for the order in which the zealots killed one another to prevent falling at the hands of the Romans, as Josephus tells us, or did they have some other less nefarious purpose? If the zealots did indeed take their lives before the Romans reached them, was this the right choice? The debate was lively and robust -- and the question remains unanswered.
Following this discussion, we held a very special ceremony for participants who wished to acquire or add a Hebrew name. Considering a list of criteria, these participants selected names which they felt reflected qualities they valued or experiences which helped define who they are. We offered them the blessings of naming and they had a chance to explain the names they selected. We concluded with the modern blessing by Marcia Falk, 'Be who you are, and may you be blessed in all that you are.' Singing and dancing followed and it was eminently clear that no greater honor could have been given to those who defended this ancient site and our ancient tradition.
All of that climbing and debating and dancing (and drinking water) left us ready for lunch, so we descended via cable car and rode to the Ein Gedi Youth Hostel, for a traditional Israeli chicken schnitzel buffet (with options for the vegetarians as well, of course). Sated and satisfied, we were only a few moments ride from our Dead Sea beach. Though the sun had begun to set, the temperature was still a balmy 75 degrees. Many of our travelers braved the salty water for a float, since the mineral density makes it impossible to swim. The rest of us cheered them on from the shore. Everyone was impressed with how silky their skin felt after rinsing off -- it's no wonder products made from the Dead Sea are big business!
This alone would have been a full and fulfilling day, but we had one more stop to make. Beit Eckstein (http://www.b-e.org.il/eng/HTMLs/Home.aspx) is a Jerusalem center providing services for young adults with special needs, with a particular focus on Asperger's Syndrome. We spent a lovely late afternoon with their staff and participants, comparing notes, singing songs and enjoying Israeli hospitality (which seems to always mean a variety of snacks and baked goods). Weary with the fullness of the day, we boarded the bus for a final time to experience rush hour traffic on our way 'home' to dinner at Neve Ilan.
The halls are quiet now, which suggests that our travelers have finished showering off the salt and sand and packing their suitcases for tomorrow's departure. There is so much more to see and Jerusalem will be too far away from our next few destinations, so we will load the bus in the morning in anticipation of our journey north.
A word about the travelers you have shared with us. They are kind and respectful and follow our instructions beautifully. They are thoughtful and filled with insight and have a myriad of stories and jokes to share. They are eager to learn, to test the meager Hebrew vocabularies we have given them, and to soak in every moment and every experience. Each expresses themself in their own unique voice; even those who began more reserved can be seen smiling and offering their opinions. Though Taglit-Birthright Israel calls this trip a 'gift,' it is we, their humble servants, who are truly receiving a gift, by being here with them and seeing Israel through their eyes.
Time for me to pack now too -- if they are so diligent about being on time in the morning, I'd better be on time as well.
Wishing you a lailah tov (a good night).
Rabbi Elyse Winick
