Day 2 -- Jerusalem, City of Gold
What a wonderful day we shared today! Following an early morning wake up and Shaharit service (morning prayers), we read from the Torah on the occasion of the 10th day of the month of Tevet, a fast day marking Nebuchadnezzar's ambush of Jerusalem leading up to the destruction of the first Temple. Though none of our participants were fasting (and most of our staff was), our travelers were fascinated by the history of the conflict and intrigued to learn that in modern Israel, this day also commemorates all those who perished in the Holocaust, but whose date and place of death are unknown.
Following a hearty traditional Israeli breakfast, replete with cheese and vegetables, we made our way into Jerusalem, the city of Gold. Known by this name because of the way the limestone is illuminated by sunlight at particular hours of the day, the city lay before us in all its beauty from our outlook at the Haas Promenade, also known as the Tayelet. There we listened to the words of Naomi Shemer, penned to honor this wonderful city, made kiddush over grape juice to sanctify the moment, read from Psalm 122 to express our joy over our entrance into the city and recited the Sheheheyanu blessing, saved for new things and new moments in time. Indeed, each moment for us together on this trip could be a Sheheheyanu moment.
Descending back down to the city itself by bus (our driver Gadir is a true friend), we began to explore the streets and architecture of modern Jerusalem as they carried us to Jerusalem of old. Entering through Zion Gate, we marveled at the bullet marked ancient stone gates, scarred by modern wars and found ourselves swept up in the cobblestoned narrow streets that make up the old City. We saw Jerusalem in all its Friday morning glory -- other tour groups, families preparing for Shabbat, Arab shopkeepers plying their wares. The sights and sounds were astounding.
Climbing a narrow metal staircase we found ourselves on the rooftops of the city, able to admire the view in all directions and learn a bit about the city, its geography and it's population. To our surprise, there on the rooftop we also saw a cart pulled by a donkey!
Passing the newly renovated and extremely beautiful Hurva synagogue, we continued through the narrow walks to yet another staircase, this one bringing us to a patio overlooking the Kotel, the Western Wall. The beauty of the wall, of the mosques which sit above it and the teeming masses of people worshipping below were a breathtaking sight. For many, it was the first understanding that the Western Wall is a retaining wall for the Temple Mount, not a wall of the Temple itself. It is holy to us because it is the closest accessible point to where the Holy of Holies, that most sacred part of the Temple, once stood.
Our descent to the Kotel was slow and measured. Participants were able to spend a few moments in quiet meditation, leave a note in the wall if they chose, and just soak up the atmosphere. It is a place simultaneously filled with incredible energy and incredible peace.
After the Kotel, we enjoyed a lovely boxed lunch outdoors in the garden of the Davidson Archaeological Park -- yes, the weather is beautiful enough to do that today. Now our travelers are freshening up for Shabbat, which we will welcome with song and joy, more excellent meals and time to rest, which we will all appreciate.
We hope that your Shabbat at home will be filled with joy and peace; somehow, I just suspect that ours will have a bit more magic.
Wishing you a Shabbat Shalom from Jerusalem.
Rabbi Elyse Winick
