What Makes a Hero?
We're at the conclusion of a long and incredibly full day -- it's both hard to believe we've only been here four days and hard to believe that we have only six more days on the ground. We have so much to do!
Our service this morning focused on the blessing which praises God as the Creator of light and darkness, Maker of peace and Creator of all. We explored the ways in which this blessing lacks parallelism and then discussed the ramifications of blessing's original form, Maker of Peace and Creator of Evil. Opinions varied as to which version was better and which more accurate. Our conversations, be they about prayer or anything else, are always deep and nuanced.
Two hours on the bus gave us ample time to learn about the topography and geography of Israel, as well as many of its social and economic realities. We listened to a broad range of Israeli music, made a pit stop at an Israeli coffee shop and arrived at Kfar HaNokdim (http://www.hanokdim.com/) where we were met with Beduin style tea and sweets. A camel ride around the desert compound was a highlight of the trip, followed by an introduction to Beduin hospitality, with strong coffee made with beans roasted and ground before us and sweet tea made with herbs. Our host described Beduin culture and society and explained the rituals of the coffee service offered to wayfarers. He patiently and thoroughly answered our many questions and while he was dressed in traditional garb and told us how he prefers the old ways while his children have embraced modern society, we laughed when he politely interrupted himself to brief answer the cell phone ringing in his pocket.
We had lunch there in another tent, seated on cushions before low tables. Salads and freshly baked breads filled the tables, followed by family style platters of rice, chicken, kebab (ground spiced beef) and vegetables. Another round of tea and middle eastern cookies and we were ready to roll back to the bus.
Without even time for a post-lunch nap, we arrived at the foot of the Roman Ramp at Masada (http://www.jewishvirtuallibrary.org/jsource/Judaism/masada.html). With the fortress looming large above us, we began the climb. Each and every one of us (save one healthy and pregnant staff member) made the climb. It was an incredible accomplishment! Ori, our guide, did an amazing job of honing in on the critical aspects of the Masada story, using the breathtaking archaeological sites and views to help us to understand that experience. Should the martyrs have taken their lives? Should they have allowed themselves to be captured? We came to a variety of conclusions and the conversation could have gone on for hours.
Windswept and weary, we took the cable car back down the mountain for a short bus ride to the Ein Gedi beach on the Dead Sea. Though the air was cool, most everyone was excited to try to float in the mineral rich waters. Though the stinging sensation they create is hard to avoid, the healing powers of the water and excitement over the novelty were well worth it. Night was already falling when we boarded the bus and slept solidly as we crept through Jerusalem traffic on our return to Neve Ilan.
A quick change out of wet clothes and another delightful dinner and we were ready to meet with German-born Ester Golan, who gave us her testimony on her experience escaping from Berlin in the war years. Today Ester is 87 and lives in Jerusalem, where she belongs to the Moreshet Israel Conservative congregation and was critical in the founding of the Noam Youth Movement. Her amazing life story took her from Berlin to London to Scotland to a detention camp in Atlit and many other locations in Israel. Tired though they were, our participants were deeply engaged in the telling of the story. It made for a powerful bridge to our Yad Vashem experience tomorrow.
Tomorrow we'll change hotels, so we spent the last waking moments tonight packing all our things. We're ready to move out! (and looking forward to coming back to Neve Ilan on Wednesday night).
We are fulfilled and exhausted -- and can't wait until tomorrow.
Rabbi Elyse Winick
