The Heavens Belong to God and the Land was Given to People
There is little more glorious than the North of Israel in winter, as long as the weather cooperates. While there were still some chilly moments, the sun shone brightly on us for much of the day and we were thrilled to be outside. Following morning tefillot with an emphasis on our stewardship of the planet and a breakfast of salads, pancakes and omelettes, we drove to the nearby Hula Valley for an amazing jeep tour. In addition to the great fun of the bumpy ride, the views were incomparably beautiful. Our knowledgeable guides identified the local flora and fauna and we saw many new and unfamiliar species. We crossed the 'mighty Jordan River,' which turned out to be no wider than a stream. The largest number of migratory birds in the world pass through the Hula Valley, which sits on the Afro-Syrian Rift. We saw kingfishers and quail and even saw a nutria swimming in the river. We stopped at an abandoned Syrian bunker to begin to talk about the intersection of history and geography, where our guides made us tea from local herbs to help cut the chill. The lead guide's dog ran along side our jeeps all the way there and back (a distance of several miles), adding to the delight of the trip. The dog's name is Barbuta, which means catfish. It seems a strange name for a dog, until you realize the that Hula Valley was actually the Hula Lake until it was drained to make way for agricultural endeavors. The guides pulled freshwater shells out of the rich soil to prove the point, They also picked flowers from mustard plants along the roadside and we were surprised by the spicy, fruity taste.
Returning from the jeep ride, we boarded the bus once again, this time to head to the Tel Dan Nature Reserve (http://www.parks.org.il/BuildaGate5/general2/data_card.php?Cat=~25~~9704...) where we took an incredible sensory walk. We paid close attention to unusual sounds (the rushing waters of the Jilabun stream, local birds, hidden frogs), sights (waterfalls, wild blackberries, different types of leafy trees and an ancient flour mill), scents (the cool clean air), slippery rocks and muddy paths and imagining the sweet taste of the rushing waters (we did not verify if this assertion was correct!). It was thrilling to experience Israel's natural beauty and to feel a sense of connection with nature.
Stopping for lunch at the Kiryat Shemoneh Mall, we had a chance to Israel from the inside. Coffee shops, pizza shops and burger places gave us plenty of options (in addition to the 'standard' falafel and shawarma) and many of us explored a supermarket, buying snacks and marveling at the differences and similarities to the stores we know at home.
One of the windiest spots in Israel is Har Bintal. In our honor, the winds subsided and we were treated to a spectacular view across the border into Syria. Standing on this Golan Heights mountain, it's easy to see the challenges associated with deciding whether or not this area should be returned in exchange for peace. Our Israeli participants voiced their opinions, our knowledgeable and vocal students voiced their opinions and we had a fascinating discussion about the prospects for peace with Syria. Some hot chocolate rounded out the visit and then we were on the bus again, this time going to the Magic of the Golan, a multimedia presentation (http://www.magic-golan.co.il/site/index.asp?depart_id=28111&lat=en). Opinions were fairly consistent that the 180 degree screen movie was beautiful, but kitschy, and the three dimensional map of the Golan Heights, with a light and sound illustration of the geological origins of the region and the role it played in both the Six Day War and the Yom Kippur War, gave us some context about place and time.
The winding roads which come down from the Golan back into the Galilee region lulled us to sleep and on arrival back at Gonen, we sampled a truly unique Israeli experience, drinking chocolate milk from a plastic bag. Just as generations of North American children grew up drinking milk at school from half pint containers, in Israel, the quintessential childhood beverage is shoko basakit, or chocolate milk packaged in a plastic bag. One of our Israeli participants demonstrated, showing how to shake the bag and then bite (and spit out) a tiny corner of the plastic. Then you drink the milk through the opening, squeezing the bag til you've had every last drop. Only in Israel!
Packing began in the interval before and after dinner. We're moving a little more slowly now, partly because we are tired, but mostly because everyone is so busy talking with one another that they lose track of time. It's wonderful to watch (and participate!). We met in the evening to process the day, only to hear the participants wax poetic in the first fifteen minutes about how wonderful the trip is and how much they appreciate the staff. I'm hesitant to type that, lest you think we are tooting our own horns, but it was remarkable and came as quite a shock. Some typical groups never express those sentiments and others do so at the last possible moment. To have a group derail a process conversation that way, with such sincerity and at this point in the trip, points to just how incredible THEY are. We are very grateful to be here with them.
The packing is done and they are off (we hope) to sleep. We rise very early tomorrow morning for a long bus ride to the Children's Museum in Holon. Our Israelis have brought a movie with English subtitles for the bus, so while some doze in the back, those who choose to sit up front will be exposed to yet another aspect of Israeli culture. There's never a dull moment with the Shorashim/KOACH Taglit-Birthright Israel program!
As we watch the days of this trip rush past and our time together slip away, know that we on the staff appreciate the trust that you have shown by sharing your children with us. Taglit-Birthright Israel refers to this trip as a 'gift.' Some days, it's hard to tell who are the recipients and who are the gift givers.
Laila Tov (good night).
Rabbi Elyse Winick
