Tzfat & Tel Aviv | Shorashim - Israel with Israelis

Tzfat & Tel Aviv

Ariel Walcutt

Waking up on our last morning at Kibbutz Afik, we enjoyed our last breakfast of fresh vegetables and cheeses before heading on our bus.  While driving on the winding mountain roads of the Golan Heights was nauseating for many members of our trip, it was fascinating to see the minefields and bomb shelters, remnants of the previous conflicts of this territory.  Arriving at a natural hot spring, we luxuriated in the hot mineral water.   The stark contrast between the natural pools and the barren, mountainous landscape surrounding us was beautiful.  Checking out the other visitors to the park, groups of older Israelis enjoyed the soothing effects of multiple steaming pools.  

Our next stop was the city of Tzfat, one of the four holy cities in Israel.  We learned about the city's origins as a safe haven for victims of the Inquisition, in particular the founders of Jewish mysticism, Kaballah.  I was enchanted by the narrow cobblestone streets of the old quarter(?), filled with Judaica shops and stands selling fresh juice and crepes.  Our group came together in an old stone building with an impressive overlook of the valley for a performance of traditional music, the bell drum solo being a highlight of the experience.  I was excited to spend time in Tzfat, as I'll be extending my Birthright trip to spend two weeks in the city for a program named Livnot Ulehibanot.  When a representative of the program spoke to us about the program, several other members of our group were inspired to join for the opportunity to spend more time volunteering in this unique city.  After a trip to a handmade candle shop, our group was given time to pick up souvenirs and lunch.  With my friends Brian Solomon, Sam, and Jesse, we found a small cafe for lunch, where we had the best meal of our trip so far- shakshuka, falafel, and hummus with freshly toasted bread (inset pictures!).  Brian reported "It was good."

After a much-needed nap time on the ride to Tel Aviv, we stopped at Independence Hall to understand the history of the founding of Israel.  At this house-turned-art museum, our guide provided a passionate retelling of how David Ben Gurion declared the independence of the state of Israel there in 1948.  We were struck by how small the hall was, and how brief and hurried the ceremony was, given the importance of the event.  

Even with such a jam-packed day, Tel Aviv night life was a must-see.  We were active participants in Odd Birdz, a sketch comedy performance by local celebrities.  The show featured hilarious skits, free candy, and impressive dance moves.  Next, we walked to Ben Yehuda Street, a hub for bars and restaurants.  One of the Israelis traveling with us, Adi, gave an excellent recommendation for a bar.  Together as a group, we had fun dancing and mingling with the locals, ending the night with late-night pizza.

Our early start the next morning did not help much with the effects of partying.  While our reliable snack committee tried to help us by providing chocolate milk in a bag, a popular nosh with kids and kids at heart, it appeared to be a mixed bag for some of our participants.  Personally I found it rich and delicious, agreeing with Lauren's claim that "The bag makes it taste better!"  We learned the story of Yitzhak Rabin, and his tragic death at the hands of a Jewish extremist right after giving a speech for peace.  Asking Israelis on the street about the event, we recognized how this event was the equivalent of 9/11 in terms of impact for them.

Traveling to the adjacent city, Jaffo, we explored the ancient streets of the old quarter, which is one of the world's oldest functioning ports.  The most special part of our Tel Aviv tour for me was Shuk Carmel, an outdoor market spanning an entire street blocked off to traffic.  An enticing mix of spices, olives, and warm bread wafted through the stalls.  While many of our group members picked up souvenirs for loved ones, I kept my nose out for the perfect lunch spot.  My intuition brought me to a hole in the wall schwarma joint, where Sam, Brian Reissman and I salivated as meat was shaved off a rotating stake, filling a pita along with fresh and pickled vegetables.  Experiencing the local cuisine and atmosphere are my favorite ways of appreciating a different culture, and I'm looking forward to all the delicious tastes Jerusalem has to offer.

Photo credit: @shffmn (header), @shanizilber